Spiaggia del Principe
Aga Khan's favorite — small cove, fine sand, no facilities. Park at Romazzino and walk 10 min.
Sardinia · Costa Smeralda
The Costa Smeralda from Palau
Porto Cervo, Spiaggia del Principe, Cala di Volpe — all 20–30 minutes by car from central Palau. The beaches are free; the hotels aren't. Here's how to enjoy the first without paying for the second.
The Palau advantage
The trick most travelers miss: the Costa Smeralda's beaches are public and free. What you pay for is the Porto Cervo hotel address — €800 to €2,500 a night in July, versus €120–200 in Palau. Sleeping in Palau puts you 20 minutes from every big-name Costa Smeralda beach, at a fraction of the cost, in a real town with real restaurants.
The six beaches to know
Capriccioli
Two connected bays. Family-friendly, shallow entry, snack bar, easy parking (paid).
Liscia Ruja (La Celvia)
Longest beach on the Costa Smeralda. Two beach clubs plus a huge free section at the ends.
Cala di Volpe
Postcard turquoise, backed by Hotel Cala di Volpe. Walk in from the road, free public access.
Grande Pevero
Between two granite headlands, protected from wind. Beach bar with good coffee.
Cala Granu
Just below Porto Cervo, walkable from the marina. Small and gets crowded quickly.
Parking fills by 10:30am in July–August. Arrive early or come after 4pm when the crowd thins and the light gets good.
Porto Cervo & San Pantaleo
Porto Cervo is the yacht harbor and the "town" of the Costa Smeralda — plan an evening walk around the marina, gelato at Piazzetta, window-shopping the boutiques. Dinner here runs €80–150 per person; if that's out of budget, drive 15 minutes back for a €25 seafood pasta in Palau.
San Pantaleo is the antidote to Porto Cervo — a granite-hewn village 15 minutes inland, artisan shops, a shaded piazza, and a famous Thursday morning open-air market. Best half-day pairing: San Pantaleo market in the morning + Liscia Ruja beach in the afternoon.
A 3-day Costa Smeralda plan from Palau
Day 1 — Maddalena tour
Full-day boat from Palau port. Sunset walk in the old town, dinner at a local trattoria.
Day 2 — Costa Smeralda beaches
Spiaggia del Principe + Capriccioli. Aperitivo in Porto Cervo marina at sunset.
San Pantaleo
Day 3 — Inland + beach
San Pantaleo market (Thursdays) or the granite hike at Capo d'Orso, then Liscia Ruja for the afternoon.
Where to stay to reach Costa Smeralda affordably
Vento e Mare — five apartments in central Palau, 20 minutes' drive to Porto Cervo and Costa Smeralda beaches. Free private parking (essential for beach-hopping), air conditioning, and 24/7 self check-in.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Costa Smeralda?
The Costa Smeralda ("Emerald Coast") is a 55 km stretch of granite headlands, pine forest and turquoise bays on the northeast coast of Sardinia, developed from 1962 by the Aga Khan as an ultra-luxury resort area. Its heart is Porto Cervo, but the beaches are all public — you don't need to sleep there to swim there.
How far is the Costa Smeralda from Palau?
Very close. Baja Sardinia is 12 km / 15 min from Palau, Porto Cervo is 20 km / 25 min, San Pantaleo is 25 km / 30 min. From Vento e Mare in central Palau, you can be on Spiaggia del Principe or Capriccioli in half an hour.
Are Costa Smeralda beaches free?
The sand and water are free and public — Italian law. What you pay for are optional beach clubs with lounger + umbrella sets (€30–150/day depending on the beach). Bring your own towel and you pay nothing.
What's the best Costa Smeralda beach?
The most photographed ones: Spiaggia del Principe (Aga Khan's favorite), Capriccioli (family-friendly, two bays), Liscia Ruja (long white crescent), Cala di Volpe (postcard turquoise, walk from the hotel), and Grande Pevero. Get there before 10:30am in July–August or forget parking.
Do I need to book restaurants in Porto Cervo?
Yes for dinner in July and August — especially in the marina and at Cala di Volpe. Lunch is easier. If Porto Cervo prices sting (mains €40–70), drive 10 minutes back toward Palau for local trattorias at €18–28.
Is San Pantaleo worth visiting?
Yes. Small artisan village 15 min inland from Porto Cervo, wrapped by granite peaks. Thursday morning open-air market (best in northern Sardinia) and quiet cafés on the piazza on other days. Combine with a beach afternoon.
Can I visit the Costa Smeralda on a day trip from Palau?
Absolutely — most people staying in Palau do it 2–3 times during a week. Pick one beach in the morning, lunch in a beach shack or drive back to Palau, then Porto Cervo marina for sunset drinks. No hotel change needed.